Stories Info

Eastern Germany

August 2024
For our summer holidays in 2024, we packed up the campervan and headed east. Two weeks on the road took us from the Baltic coast to the lakes of Mecklenburg, through the winding waterways of the Spreewald and into the dramatic sandstone mountains of Saxon Switzerland. Three national parks, countless kilometres on bikes and in kayaks, and a few surprises along the way. Plenty to discover without ever leaving Germany.
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Lepizig

Our road trip started on a rather different note: football. A stop in Leipzig gave us the chance to watch RB Leipzig take on Paris Saint-Germain in a pre-season friendly. Not exactly the usual start to a camping holiday, but a pretty good one nonetheless. The next day, it was time to head north – trading football crowds for lakes, forests and a somewhat slower pace of life.
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Müritz National Park

Our first proper camping stop took us to the Müritz, Germany's largest lake entirely within the country. Based near the small town of Waren, we spent our days exploring the lakeshore by bike, paddling across the water in a canoe and enjoying some well-deserved downtime. The kids even found time for a little beach soccer. With hundreds of lakes, quiet forests and the vast landscapes of Müritz National Park nearby, it was a pretty good place to settle into holiday mode.
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Rügen

Next came Rügen, Germany's largest island, and a campsite near the Schaabe, a seemingly endless stretch of sandy beach along the Baltic Sea. Clear water, wide-open views and plenty of room to do absolutely nothing. 
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Jasmund National Park

But the island had more to offer than lazy beach days. We ventured into Jasmund National Park twice, hiking through ancient beech forests to the famous white chalk cliffs rising dramatically above the sea. Some places really are worth visiting more than once.

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Spreewald

The Spreewald welcomed us with rain. Not quite the arrival we'd hoped for, but fortunately the weather improved enough to explore this extraordinary maze of waterways by bike and kayak. Here, the River Spree splits into countless little canals, winding through forests, meadows and traditional villages. Getting around by water felt like the most natural thing in the world. And of course, no visit to the Spreewald would be complete without sampling its famous pickles – even if they came with rather ambitious prices and somewhat less ambitious customer service.

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Saxon Switzerland

From the flat waterways of the Spreewald, we headed south into a landscape that couldn't have been more different. Saxon Switzerland National Park is a spectacular maze of towering sandstone cliffs, deep gorges and dense forests. Our hikes here felt like little adventures, with narrow paths, steep stairways and rocky passages leading to some breathtaking views. A rather dramatic change of scenery – and a fitting finale to our little tour of eastern Germany's national parks.

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Mödlareuth

On our way home, we made one final stop in Mödlareuth, a tiny village with an extraordinary history. For decades, the Iron Curtain ran straight through its centre, separating neighbours, friends and families. Known as “Little Berlin”, the village was divided by a concrete wall, fences and watchtowers. Today, the German-German Museum preserves part of these fortifications, offering a sobering glimpse into what life along the border once meant.

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More than three decades after reunification, the former divide is still visible in parts of Germany's economic and demographic statistics. But standing in a village where people once couldn't even cross the street to visit their neighbours puts those abstract differences into perspective. A thought-provoking final stop on an otherwise wonderfully uncomplicated summer road trip.