Netherlands
Friesland
We broke up the long drives to and from the Netherlands with visits to friends along the way. Once we reached Friesland, though, it was time to swap four wheels for two. When in Dutch, do as the Dutch do.
Sneek
A short bike ride took us to Sneek, a charming little town in the heart of Friesland's lake district. We spent a few hours wandering along its canals, exploring a museum of local history and admiring the Waterpoort, the town's iconic medieval water gate. All the canals and Dutch charm, without the crowds of Amsterdam.
Waterways
And when we weren't exploring Friesland on two wheels, we took to the water. We spent sunny afternoons paddleboarding on the Sneekermeer and navigating the canals and waterways in a rented motorboat – including a return trip to Sneek, this time for no particular reason other than ice cream.
North Holland
Next stop: North Holland. We set up camp behind the vast dunes of Castricum, with an equally vast stretch of sandy beach waiting on the other side. Plenty of sunshine, a steady North Sea breeze, and miles of sand that we had almost entirely to ourselves. Not a bad place to spend a few summer days.
Amsterdam
From our peaceful campsite by the coast, Amsterdam was just an easy train ride away. A day of wandering along picturesque canals, soaking up the city's laid-back atmosphere, stopping at cosy cafés and, of course, indulging in some freshly made poffertjes. A little taste of Dutch city life before heading back to the dunes.
Haarlem
On our way south to Rotterdam, we made a stop in Haarlem, the historic capital of North Holland. Often overshadowed by its famous neighbour Amsterdam, Haarlem has plenty to offer in its own right: centuries-old townhouses, quiet canals, hidden "hofjes" tucked away behind unassuming doorways, and lively little cafés. Much of Amsterdam's architectural beauty and history, but on a smaller scale and without the hustle and bustle. Definitely worth a detour.
The Windmill
Leaving the coast behind, we headed towards Rotterdam, with a stop in the small village of Arkel. After days of camping, we traded our campervan for something rather special: a beautifully preserved old Dutch windmill, now an Airbnb. With its original wooden beams, steep staircases and plenty of historic character, the place was an attraction in its own right. And for the kids, the highlight came before we'd even unpacked: hauling our luggage up to the second floor using the mill's old-fashioned rope and pulley system.
Kinderdijk
Apparently, one windmill wasn't enough. So we headed to Kinderdijk, home to some of the Netherlands' most iconic windmills, and explored the area by bike. Cycling through the perfectly flat countryside was easy enough even for the kids, and a stop at a local organic cheese farm completed the experience. Windmills, bicycles and Dutch cheese – just about every cliché ticked off. And we loved every bit of it.
Rotterdam
Rotterdam couldn't have been more different from the Dutch cities we'd visited so far. Much of its historic centre was destroyed during World War II, and what emerged from the ruins is a city of bold architecture, modern skyscrapers and a skyline unlike anywhere else in the Netherlands. But what fascinated me most was its maritime heritage. As home to Europe's largest port, Rotterdam has always been a gateway to the world – and for a landlubber like me, the ships, cranes and historic vessels at the Maritime Museum were a highlight of the trip.
